For a anthology heavily influenced by hip-hop, there wasn’t a single sound on the runway. Marc Jacobs invited his visitors to the Lexington Armory and set up two rows of folding chairs — the type you probably sat on during violent school assemblies. There was no warning that the show was about to start, lay for the time on the clock (2 p.m.) and the stomping of the models’ feet in Marc’s signature chunky rostrum boots, a patent oxford on occasion.
The show lasted eight leasts. Eight minutes of mostly neutral clothes walking by. The only truthful pop of color was from the hardware on all the flashy jewelry, a collaboration with artist Urs Fischer. From large-and-in-charge hoops to protracted pendant chains and the detailing on hobo bags, gold was the clear convergence. There was one bedazzled earring in the shape of a key that stood out, along with a thin little miniskirt swathed in sequins.
The outerwear, however, was particularly firm. There were plenty of plaid coats and one jacket with cherry-red shearling beats. The track suits looked as though they could have been plucked from a husbandry store but undoubtedly worn-in and comfortable. Extended bucket hats and backward baseball caps by Stephen Jones were the final nod to the origin of roadway wear.
At the end of it all, Marc himself emerged wearing all-black and one single gold bind. We were permitted to leave. Outside on the street, Marc’s cast (comprehending Kendall Jenner, Winnie Harlow, Jamie Bochert, and Hanne Gaby Odiele) were game up in front of a wall of boomboxes blasting songs. Everyone took photos of the reveal as the models flashed their iPhones right back at us. But the message was in the gaudy, thumping music: it was what shaped the clothes of the entire hip-hop cultural flow. Scroll for a look at the encore sidewalk performance.
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