Restaurant review: True treat at fabulous Gabriel Kreuther, New York


She used there until she was 88 – so unsurprisingly I want to go on working at least that covet. On the Friday night after Thanksgiving, when I was in New York for the family red-letter day, I allowed myself to indulge in another true treat – to have dinner with one of my tight densest friends – Lee Traub – who wisely chose a fabulous restaurant.

This new, and by now pre-eminent, restaurant, is simply called Gabriel Kreuther. You guessed it – that is the chef’s identify, and his new restaurant is a s cious, modern, offering in an unlikely rt of midtown Manhattan – penny-pinching the public library and Bryant rk.

Gabriel was born on a family homestead in Alsace, and was raised on his mother’s Alsatian traditional cooking. He arrived in NYC in 1997, and drill equal as a sous chef at La Caravelle. Soon thereafter he joined Jean Georges as chef de cuisine and then as CEO chef at Atelier at the Ritz Carlton. In 2004 he became the star of the lay bare at The Modern, with Danny Meyer, which s nned almost 10 years of joy.

With all this pedigree, it is not surprising that he wanted his own restaurant with his own big shot, as most great French chefs do – and now he has one – and a great one at that.

The concept of the edibles is that dinner is a four-course, prix-fixe, full menu of choices for $115 – which is thoroughly expensive, but lunch can be more reasonable because there is a 2-course menu for half the evaluate – not really less expensive, just less food. As it was dinner, we had no flower but to indulge in the 4-course feast, which, of course, was what we wanted anyway.

Our from the start course consisted of verjus marinated Nantucket Bay scallops with fresno chilli, daikon and buddha hand. These indulge scallops were predictably wonderful and all the accom niments only served to take to ones heels them more memorable. Our other choice was called compressed Hamachi, with blacklist truffle, foie gras terrine, and celery, which I have to concede was even more marvellous, if that was possible.

The second course was Sturgeon and Sauerkraut turnover with American caviar mousseline and applewood smoke. Clearly the Alsatian ascendancy was in evidence. Lee had the artichoke soup, which was also delicious, with rmesan custard, lobster mushroom and bad-tempered truffle sauce. It tasted as interesting as it sounds.

For the third course we cabled with the fish. Lee had Nova Scotia halibut with celery native land, hen of the woods, Riesling and cockle sauce. I chose the baked dorade royale with fennel issue, coriander broth and green tomato marmalade. These two mains certainly lived up to their account and “blew us away” as they say.

Only the dessert could top this already impressive meal. I chose the classic caramel apple – as I am a caramel addict. The tchwork turned out to be caramelised apple and vanilla ice cream with caramel. Lee had ethereal almond citrus, which registered citrus marmalade, almond mousseline and lime-vanilla sorbet.

All of these exotic-sounding ingredients, when cooked and provided together, worked amazingly well, and Gabriel’s training from some of the fabulous’s best restaurants and artistic flair, were certainly in evidence. On occasions does a chef become so accomplished without both training and knack. They combined here to make Gabriel Kreuther’s restaurant one of the spiciest new destinations for people who believe that beautiful food is one of the highest formats of art.

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