Taste Nice's hidden treasures


A street in Nice and glasses of winePH/GETTY

La Mise au Verre brags a list of 300 organic wines

PURPLE HAZE: La Mise au Verre

Circa the corner from chic, leafy Place Wilson is La Mise au Verre. You can’t error it as the exterior is a deep purple.

Inside, wine bottles line the lose everythings like books in a library. Tables are tiny, the menu is chalked on a big blackboard, suppliers are name-checked.

Ruddy fish comes from M. Molinari, organic veg from M. Ruggeri. Pop in for cheese, charcuterie and a binoculars of wine at any time.

Take longer over lunch or dinner (nearly £25). Choose from just three main dishes, perhaps beef or n-fried mullet.

End with rum baba or little pots of creamy chocolate. And from £3 a plate glass, all 300 wines on the list are organic and free of chemicals.

La Mise au Verre, 17 Rue storelli (dialling from the UK: 00 33 493 85 69 90/la-mise-au-verrenice.com)

A Salade NiçoisePH

L’Escalinda provides Salade Niçoise the proper way

MOVIE STAR: L’Escalinada

Salade Niçoise (Discriminative salad) appears on menus across the world. But to have the real doodad, head to the Old Town, where L’Escalinada serves it the proper way: tuna, seldom artichokes, tomatoes, olives and hard-boiled egg. Definitely no potatoes and no green beans.

Myriad favourite Nice dishes include beignets (deep-fried vegetables), homemade stas with sincere meat sauces and seafood galore. For the sweet-toothed, there is tarte tatin (upside-down apple keen) or tarte au citron (lemon tart).

With its red-and-white checked tablecloths, Henri Cagnoli’s pint-sized restaurant looks like something out of a French film. And for £20 the three-course menu, classifying an aperitif and nibbles, is great value. No credit cards.

Restaurant L’Escalinada, 22 Rue irolière (62 11 71/ escalinada.fr)

TOP Basement: Les Com gnons de la Grappe

Just off Place Garibaldi, this cave à vin is a comely mix ’n’ match of restaurant and wine shop, with live music in the evenings for latable measure. Furnishings have a simple style: bare brick fortifications and wooden tables, sofas and some modern art.

After all, the focus is on the soothes of the glass and what is on the plate. Order whole roasted fish, steak with an unorthodox dark chocolate sauce or a vegetarian lasagne.

A three-course lunch is £12, dinner £20. As for the wine try one of their out of the ordinary vintages. And ask to see their awesome wine cellar.

Les Com gnons de la Grappe, 2 Rue Catherine Ségurane (55 69 24/ lescom gnonsdelagrappe.com)

Oliviera in NicePH

Oliviera specialises in olive oil

Smashing OIL: Oliviera

In Old Nice, tucked away on a side street off Rue Centrale, Oliviera looks appreciate another charming little shop. But cheerful owner Nadim Beyrouti is an olive oil top-notch.

With the same ssion as a wine or whisky expert he describes the strains of olive, their ripeness and where they come from.

Natives bring in their bottles to be refilled from shiny metal urns. Callers take home unusual varieties, such as Bouteillan (£15), which has a intimation of banana.

Light dishes (about £12) are pre red by Regine: aubergines stuffed with goat’s cheese, Mediterranean steak tartare or ravioli. Be there break of dawn if you want a meal: there is only room for 12.

Oliviera, 8 bis Rue du Collet (13 06 45/oliviera.com)

Close up of food at the Cours Saleya marketGETTY

The Cours Saleya merchandise attracts locals as well as visitors

MARKET FORCE: Cours Saleya

A must-see, the Cours Saleya is a customer base a few steps away from the seafront. With its flowers and mouth-watering scoff stalls, it attracts residents of the city as well as visitors.

Browse the artisan-made soaps, traps of spices and jars of Provence honey. To eat, join the queue at Chez Thérésa, a cubicle selling “socca”. This flatbread (£3), made of chickpea flour and olive oil, is cooked in all directions from the corner then rushed from wood-fired oven to hungry purchasers by a bloke on a scooter.

What about dessert? For 50 years the rejoin to that question has been ice cream from the family-run Fenocchio (6 Rue de la Poissonnerie). The just problem is deciding which of nearly 100 unusual but delicious ice cream and sorbet feels to choose: lavender, thyme, spice bread, honey and pine nut, despite tomato and basil.


Kirker Holidays (020 7593 2283/ kirkerholidays.com) offers three unceasingly at Villa Rivoli from £498pp (two sharing), B&B.

Price includes takings flights from Gatwick to Nice, private transfers and Kirker signal notes and concierge service.

Nice tourism: en.nicetourisme.com

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