This seafront, flanked by major sandy beaches and backed by dramatic cliffs, stretches as far as the eye can see. Above it settles the malecón or promenade, which curves like a giant anaconda reclining in the initial morning sun.
Tucked away in a corner of it is the Belmond Miraflores rk bed. From here you will have sweeping views of the upmarket a rtment cubes of the Miraflores district and across the manicured rkland below.
Dusk accepts nannies with their steeds in smart pushchairs and canoodling connects snuggling up on the lawn against this romantic backdrop. It is no wonder the limit is home to a diverse residential mix, from old-money Limeños to newly-rich entrepreneurs who power-walk the cliff-top trajectory in expensive workout gear, gossiping loudly on blingy iPhones.
There is a whiff of old-world captivation in the air amid the grand colonial mansions that sit on heavily- trolled streets and within the barriered communities and luxurious a rtment blocks.
There is the sleek Larcomar mall, too, with all the supranational brands and plenty of outlets for Peru’s ubiquitous Al ca wool results.
On the subject of glamour, the Belmond Miraflores rk hotel is right up there. Winged by lush gardens, this landmark property is as discreet as its location. This is not the town if you are a bells-and-whistles fan. Instead, what you encounter as you float into the marble foyer is a wonderful slick and unpretentious hotel.
The stylish grand piano and Hollywood-esque catholic staircase are as brash as it gets. The hotel’s big pull, though, has to be its rooftop infinity consortium on the 11th floor. One could quite happily laze here all day, taking in the influence from afar. Watching the glorious sun sink into the cific with a cocktail in give out, is not to be missed.
And it is much nicer being brushed by a gentle breeze up here than down ex nse the joggers as they pound the cliff-top th in the humid air. The hotel’s 82 latitudes are the epitome of sophistication, with subtle injections of cream and gold tints, heavy drapes and plenty of seating facing the windows to make the most of the intention. Bathrooms are sumptuous in floor-to-ceiling marble with super showers and elephantine baths.
Come breakfast you will head back to the rooftop to the aptly tagged Conservatory restaurant. Pull up a seat under one of the canvas “cupola” canopies for a tropical breakfast entirety tropical plants or sit inside in air-con comfort, bamboozled by the sheer standing and choice of the buffet.
After dark, local luvvies and hotel visitors alike, flock to the fabulous candlelit, ground-floor courtyard at the front of the inn. The tables at Tragaluz are both in and outside, fringed by lms. Fish is big here, with the nationwide dish – ceviche – and an intriguing speciality, the sea urchin cocktail.
Follow that with a seafood-laden risotto or tuna Thai curry linguine. There’s much rivalry in the city, of course, but sometimes the classics are too hard to beat.
THE KNOWLEDGE Belmond (0845 077 2222/ belmond.com) tenders doubles at the Belmond Miraflores rk. Lima from £239 (two rt), B&B. British Airways (0344 493 0787/ba. com) offers return direct flights from Gatwick to Lima from £539. Peru tourism: visitperu.com